Rinconcito Salvadoreño
2062 Commercial Drive, Vancouver
604-879-2600

I have an odd theory: Given a geographical location, there is a cuisine that acts as a bully to the other close-by cuisines. OK, that was a bit strange so let’s try again with an example: In Chinese cuisine, Cantonese dishes are better known that Hakka, Szechuan, Fujian, Beijing and so on. Likewise, in Europe, French and Italian are better known that Spanish, Portuguese, German and so on. In the case of Latin America, Mexican is better known than the rest.
In a way, it is a mixed blessing. In some places, that cuisine is somewhat similar with a different twist so, basically, is almost the same. However, it is also bad because you don’t get to know that other cuisine exist and, hence, the chance you might end up completely missing the opportunity to try something different. In a way, this is what I think occurs with this restaurant, Rinconcito Salvadoreño, which, as the name might suggest, hails from El Salvador.

When I walked in, I think I had that feeling similar to those in the western movies. You know, when a character walks into a cantina, music stops and everybody looks at you? I mean, a Chinese person in a restaurant whose main target is Latin American? Anyway, I was promptly seated and given the menu. Now, the restaurant itself does not only serve Salvadorian (sp?) cuisine but also Mexican. Now, I was not interested in any Mexican dish, instead a more Salvadorian dish: pupusas. The best way to describe it would be a corn flour dough, filled with, well, fillings, and then flatten and cooked in a griddle. Chinese pancake would be a similar dish (an apperance) though, because the dough has a softer consistency, it is not as “tough”. Having said that, I skipped the whole menu and went for the items in this page:

(To Spanish speakers, unless El Salvador has its own unique spelling variations, the way it is written is quite… Odd…)
I ordered three of these: one “Revuelta” (aka mixed), one Chicharrón and one Frijol y Queso. For drinks, I ordered a tamarind drink ($2.50):

This reminds me of chicha (no, not the fermented alcoholic drink), rather a sweetened (sometimes a little bit too sweet) drink with flavouring, not necessarily juice, though. It was refreshing but nothing to rave about.
Now, I knew these will take a while as they are made to order so, in the meantime, I looked around and a snapshot of the restaurant itself:

During this time (easily 10 minutes), several couple of customers walked in, including a couple of take-outs – most of them Spanish speakers. At this point, I was convinced of something: Authenticity was not going to be an issue… (As a side note, I have eaten pupusa before, made by the Salvadorian mother of sister friends. Hi Lorena, Patty!).
And finally, the food arrived…


A close-up of the pupusa. I “teared” one of them a little bit so you can observe the “inside”.
Yes, that’s a plastic plate… The usual side dish is curtido, a pickled-like coleslaw. It was a good thing they leave a lot of the napkins on the tables because eating them is slightly tricky. First, you take some of the coleslaw and put them on top of the pupusa. Then, drizzle some of the salsa, fold it and eat it in a similar way you would eat a taco. However, because they are made to order, these are really hot (temperature-wise) and some of the salsa might drizzle out, so chances they will make a small mess.
So, how was it? I will have to say they were quite good, with the caveat it is not too savoury and its flavours were not as complex as other cuisines. Still, it is good on its own way. So, if you are looking for Latin American cuisine and do not want Mexican, El Rinconcito Salvadoreño is a really good option. (On that note, another customer ordered what seems to be a full-sized fried fish. I think that something I will have to order some other time!). Will come back.


{ 13 comments… read them below or add one }
Looks very interesting these pupusas. If I ever were to try it, I am glad I read your description of how to eat it and to watch out for the potential mess I could create.
I enjoyed this introduction to Latin American food. Given your personal background of living in this part of the world, would love to read more reviews of other cuisine from Latin America should you find the time.
I would love to read more Latin reviews as well!
Hey shokutsu, Jessica,
I am glad you enjoyed this post. I will try to visit other non-Mexican Latin American; however, there is a catch to this. There aren’t that many non-Mexican Latin American restaurants in Metro Vancouver (though I have already one in mind…). If all things go well, I have plans to go to Panama sometime early next year; if I do, I will certainly blog about it!
Interesting post Kimho – there aren’t that many Mexican restaurants in Vancouver, so I suspect you can probably total the number of non-Mexican LA restaurants with your fingers. The buns look tasty, and the tamarind drink is definitely different. I imagine it tastes similar to the sour plum drinks you find at hotpot places…
Hi ET,
Actually, there are more Mexican than what you think (Not sure how authentic they are, though). For example, in the West End, you have Andale’s and Ponchos. In Hastings, between Nanaimo and Slocan, there is El Pulgarcito (not sure if it is still open, haven’t been in the area for a while). In Victoria Drive, is one of the best known, Doña Cata. In Burrard and 4th, there is Pepitas. And then there are Baru (Point Grey) and Cobre (Gastown, near DTES), although these last two do not necessarily focus only Mexican, it makes a large part of their menu. The one I have in mind is The Inka Deli, near Burnaby General Hospital, which, to my understanding, is Peruvian (the name should be a hint, eh?). If I end up there, it will be a good break from NA and/or Asian food!
Haven’t had a sour plum drink from hot pot places so I can’t make a comparison. Sorry about that!
Hey Kim – thanks for the tip! Unlike California, where taquerias or other Latin restaurants are a common sight, they are but a drop in the bucket here, don’t you think? I’m looking forward to reading about the Inka Deli, that should be pretty different!
Hi ET,
You are right. But then again, given the Mexican-descendant population of California, the amount of taquerias or other Mexican type restaurants should not come as a surprise. Now, using that as a yardstick, don’t you consider odd the amount of Japanese restaurants in Metro Vancouver and the lack of East Indian (no, not that they aren’t that many, rather, I would expect more)?
Heh – yes, LOTS of Japanese places in Vancouver. I suppose Japanese food has become very mainstream, appealing to not just folks of Japanese extraction, but also Chinese, occidentals and others. For instance, going to Toshi’s on a weeknight would allow you to see a good mix of different cultures all waiting for a taste!
Mmm Pupusas… those in the picture look like REAL pupusas, Made by a Real Salvadorian,yumm… You’re lucky, I myself haven’t had One Single pupusa since I got to Santa Cruz.
Quezo… Is that some weird new milk-derivative I haven’t heard about?
I’ll have to try that restaurant when we go to Vancouver! Are there a lot of Salvadorians there? interesting…
PS: Of course no pupusas are better than MY MOM’s pupusas hahah
Hi Lorena,
As far as I know, there aren’t that many Salvadorians here. Your mom’s pupusas are the best, won’t argue that!
Hi ET,
So true. However, that is a double-edged sword, as suddenly it becomes so commonplace (as you mentioned) and loses its appeal. In fact, I have started to notice that non-Japanese restaurants have started to use Japanese names in their dishes, despite it does not necessarily have anything Japanese in it. For example, if you look at Milestone’s menu, you have “Kobe beef meatloaf”. I would not believe for a single moment they are using real kobe beef but “kobe-style”.
I’ll be trying out this place this week. I’ve always gone to El Caracol, but I want to make a comparison between the two.
Kevin, welcome. Please let us know how these two places compare to each other!
Ate here! Had the pupusas and the fried fish. =) And yes, those pupusas were so hot (temperature-wise); very difficult to hold them.
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