La Brasserie
1091 Davie Street
Vancouver, BC
As mentioned in a previous post, I have been trying to meet other food bloggers. While I have met Darina of Gratinée previously, it was just for coffee. So, when she suggested us to meet in a restaurant (and, of course, with other food bloggers), there was no way I won’t go. After throwing suggestions, the place ended up being La Brasserie.
Since it has opened, I have meant to visit it; however, it is one of those restaurants I prefer not to go by myself. Not that I have any shame; it is just that it is “better” if you go if somebody else. Furthermore, its cuisine type – French/German – is a combination of two types I should visit more often. It further made me look forward to visit this place. And, who else was on this trip? Sherman… Yes, we are two different people and not clones! 
For Sherman’s post on this visit, check here!
For Darina’s post on this visit, check here!
After seated, let’s just say we weren’t that interested in the food but chatting to each other. However, being in a restaurant, eventually we had to order food. After we made our order, we received some complimentary bread. Yes, there were two types. Fortunately for Sherman, it wasn’t hard as rock; however, I won’t say it was that good either. It wasn’t warm at all and it was a bit bland. Not even the butter helped much; however, the second spread, which was similar to paté was quite good. It provided some meaty taste but, in the end, the bread was disappointing…
For starters, Sherman ordered poutine. Wait, made that truffle poutine. I won’t be ashamed to say this but so far anything with truffle in its name has been partially disappointing to me. While I am sure that what is being served will have traces of that fungus but, at the end of the day, they do not really make justice to the truffle name. Yes, it is reflected partially in that serving of poutine, as seen above. The fries were mushy, not sure if due to the gravy. The cheese was slightly squeaky at first but that went away soon and started to melt like mozzarella. So what that has to do with the truffle? How about almost no notice truffle taste? Hmmmm… But even if I put the truffle issue aside, as a poutine, I thought it was disappointing in the end, though not sure if the fact I have been to La Belle Patate has something to do.
I ordered the steak tartare as a starter which came with some bread – almost a toast. Plating-wise it was OK but I do not eat plates! As for the dish itself, it was OK, not necessarily spectacular. The beef was average at best. In fact, not much of a beef taste. Missing some seasoning? Instead, it was masked by the horseradish – which, oddly wasn’t that strong either. Some chives and what seems to be onions rounded the dish by giving some texture. I won’t say I was terribly exhited about this.
I know this picture looks really “bad” compared to the previous ones. It was Darina’s order, mussel & frites (specifically, their saffron, white wine and garlic version). The reason for the subpar picture was that Sherman and I were “forced” to use our external flashes (this is despite we were seated next to the “window”) and it was starting to bother other customers. It was a deja vu case for me. The picture above is a best effort without using the Speedlight.
But, back to the dish. Oh, sorry I did not take a picture of the frites. I could have said it was exactly the same as the ones from the poutine. But, no, I was surprised it wasn’t! Instead, they were crispy and pipping hot. That worked well with the side mayo and, the broth of the mussels, which was quite garlic-y light. However, I thought there was something MIA. Something like the saffron, which I couldn’t taste at all. As for the mussels itself, they were quite plum. But, then again, if you can’t make this dish, you shouldn’t put it in the menu…
Sherman ordered the suckling pig which was served with sauerkraut and schupfnudel – the later being something akin to an oversized gnocchi. It was OK but not something I would be excited to order. Sauerkraut could have been somewhat more tangy; otherwise, it was somewhat generic. Either that or I should have more sauerkraut more often … The schupfnudel felt doughy than most gnocchi I have had. Not necessary “easy” to eat, as it felt like eating a savoury dense marshmallow. The suckling pig was good in its own ways – hey, it is pork, what do you expect? But, of course, there were parts it could have been better. Sure, the crackling was crunchy as expected; however, there was something falling short in the pork itself. Not sure how to explain it better but there was something missing. If I had to compare it to the one I had in The Irish Heather, I prefer the one I had at the Long Table Series.
My dish – Braised lamb cheeks with celery root puree, caramelized vegetables, rosemary jus. Hmmmmm… So… What is on top of the dish? I must say I wasn’t sure; if I had to guess, it would be some fried (?) egg noodles or something on those lines. Had some mixed feelings about it. It was odd and reminded me somehow of some Chinese fried noodles. The vegetables (some pieces of potatoes/parsnip and carrot) were well prepared but that is something I would expect. The root puree…. OK, to tell you the truth , I am not sure where it was. I did not ask because I forgot completely about it. If it wasn’t because I made reference to their menu on-line, I won’t have remembered it was supposed to be there. But, to the main part, the lamb cheeks. I will admit it was quite good – tender and soft and full of lamb flavour. However, that one last part could also be a distraction, i.e., if you don’t like gamey meats or that lamb taste, it won’t be something you will like. Furthermore, it had a slimy texture on top of it – something a lot of people would rather shy away if possible. But, in my case, it is not something I am bothered about.
After the meal, we were chatting for a while before we call it a day. And what we talked about? About the dishes we ordered, of course! I personally thought they were OK; however, not necessarily a place I would come back anytime soon. Don’t get me wrong, some of the options offered there would work for other people. It is just that they were a bit too basic. In fact, for some of the dishes, I could have been able to buy a similar dish for cheaper (though, in some cases, stretching the concept of the dish). Of course, it has its share of clientele; not necessary me.
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{ 14 comments… read them below or add one }
It’s interesting that we generally agreed on most of the major points with a few differences. It goes to show that food does really come down to personal preference. However, where you find commonality is probably where the restaurant falls into in terms of a “rating”. Thanks for organizing again!
hmm… been meaning to try this place out but am not too sure now. Had the steak tartare at Boneta 2 nights ago and it was superb. Quality beef. Give that a try instead
That’s awesome that you met up with other food bloggers. I”m a vancouver food blogger (baking) and would love to meet up with other vancouver bloggers too but it’s tough as I’m out in Coquitlam
Great pix by the way.
We did agree on most things; I think that food is not as subjective as we might think. There were variations on how much we liked everything but we were generally in agreement. Like, pass the salt shaker already!
Sherman, it was Darina who suggested it, so credits to her!
Melody, do not let my thoughts preclude you from going there. It was interesting, there were some good points but, in my opinion, it could have been better in some aspects.
Tia, thanks for your thoughts!
Darina, watch out, it is possible they believe you are now *my* clone!
Melody is right about Boneta. It was voted in En Routes 10 Best Canadian Restaurants and was the only entry from BC. The food there is amazing. I’m going to have to give it another whirl soon. So many restaurants, so little time.
This is interesting because I had the poutine and there was lots of truffle oil and truffle taste! Like it was the first thing to hit my nose and taste buds…extremely disappointing that you guys didn’t have that!
I’ve also had their suckling pig (no post) but I thought it was really good…it’s actually super hard to get that crackling that crispy so I think I could have been more impressed with that part. Pork is actually hard to do well in general I find…but when it’s good..it’s REALLY good.
oh and also..the brad not being warm…it true French tradition it shouldn’t be…although I always like mine warm too
I actually liked the sauerkraut because it wasn’t as tangy, but I do like that it’s made in house.
I had perused your entry on la Brasserie before I dropped in there. I was curious to see what you meant by “squeaky” poutine and chinese noodles on the Braized lamb. All I can say, to be frank, is that the ‘random’ thoughts can only be perceived as exactly that. Random.
There does not seem to be any appreciation for the culture behind the food that is served here. First, it’s a brasserie. That means, in effect, a ‘pub’. Is it ‘haute cuisine d’un restaurant gastronomique’? No, not exactly. It’s not Le Gavroche nor le Georges V but it does not pretend to be.
First, the poutine is served just as it should be: with cheese curds. So ‘squeaky’ they should be. It’s good to see a restaurant that actually serves poutine with curds. As for the truffels, a soupçon of truffle is all that is necessary….. What do you expect? A whole mushroom plunked on french fries? Gimme a break!
Since when must bread be served warm? It’s a way to sop up the sauces which, I am overjoyed to say are just right here. They’re not overbearing but not withering wall-flowers either. I do agree on the paté that comes with the bread, however. It is a little surprise for which Davie Street should become a culinary destination unto itself.
Perhaps I am not quite so well traveled in the Steak Tartare world as our foodie-reviewer here, but I found it to be a delight. Indeed, I found the tartare to be ‘sublime’ (look that up in the dictionary). It was light and delicate: not exactly a descriptive one would expect of raw beef but indeed it was. I’ve had much ‘beefier’ tartar steak- but if one is looking for such a delicacy but is turned off by the raw-ness of the dish then this one is a perfect choice. In other words, it is definitely Steak Tartare without being overwhelmingly ‘Moo-y’.
As for the braised lamb with the ‘chinese noodle’ looking parsnip chips that my friend had: The paysan nature of the lamb, combined with the sharp earthiness (I’d use the term ‘terroir’ but I fear our reviewer might misunderstand its meaning) of the parsnip makes a perfectly balanced combination to the palate. Looks like chinese noodles? I sense cultural bias here. I’ve had some delightful dishes at Dim Sum but I would never compare them in their presentation (or ‘plating’, whatever that is) to something served in another culture.
Meanwhile, the suckling pig was delicious. Was something missing? Not to my taste. The craqulin was wonderful and the demi was a delicate complement to this solidly filling dish. Simple, but well balanced for the palate. The schupfnudel was doughier than Gnocchi? No kidding…. it’s schupfnudel, not gnocchi. For good gnocchi, I’d recommend an Italian restaurant- not something that transplanted itself from Strasbourg onto Davie Street.
Our reviewer here, who says he’s there “only for the food (dot com)” but preferred conversation in a 35-seat restaurant says the food was a bit expensive. Presumably, the ambiance in which he preferred to converse doesn’t count. Presumably, understanding that “brasserie” means “pub” doesn’t count. Presumably, sitting at the bar and watching the chefs de partie orchestrate such exquisite symphonies as Confit de Canard along with one of the very best chocolate tartes I’ve ever had the decadence to explore, doesn’t count. All of these luxuries incrementally add to the bill. But then again… basic fare ‘sans ambiance’ can easily be had Chez MacDo….. a Quarter-Pounder with Cheese- as a meal for under six bucks. Hardly a fair comparison, is it?
My one, simple fly in the ointment was that the Sunday special cassoulet was a bit salty. It was, nevertheless, an explosion of taste and texture in French ‘pork and beans’ where the beans and pork (ham, sausage and craqulin) were served up in equal portions.
I’m glad you want to stay away my dear reviewer. I’m most delighted to know that I won’t be held up in the line by a flash-happy shutterbug who prefers to sneer at good, filling, honest, savoury fare in an elegant neighbourhood establishment by applying the same standards one might at le Ritz in Paris.
When the Globe says that Vancouver needs more places like this, I’m inclined to agree. It was the best French meal I’ve had since I was in Nice in 2000. I went away stuffed (the portions were über-generous)- and I am plotting to return as soon as I can.
Flyin’ Brian, welcome! That is indeed the beauty of blogging, where everybody can post their opinion. In fact, you can check the experiences of my dining companions that night: Darina and Sherman.
Putting that aside, I will entertain your couple of jabs and say…
(*) Unlike some, ahem, reviewers from written publications, I won’t hesitate of going out of certain areas of Downtown Vancouver, Kits and West Side, not to mention try everything and, if necessary, gets my hand dirty. How many of these “reviewers” can say they drove all the way to Abbotsford just for pizza (and a really good one I must say).
I’d like to add my 2 cents. Since I was there at that same meal, I can absolutely see where Kim is coming from. The poutine had no discernible truffle oil that we could see, and that is from 3 people! Also, I find it interesting that people can make all sorts of assumptions and then base their comments on them. Darina is an experienced food writer who knows what she is talking about. So, I’m assuming that her take on the meal was out-of-line as well? I think some people are missing the point as in, this is the personal opinion of the blogger. It’s okay to disagree with the opinion; but not really necessary to attack in a personal manner.
By essentially insulting or insinuating that someone is unqualified to make form an opinion from an actual experience that they paid for with their own money is not fair. Now with all that being said, I did not agree with Kim on quite a few points. In fact, I am probably more leaning towards enjoying my meal at La Brasserie. Thus, we really didn’t share the same opinion from the exact same meal. That is key here, we didn’t dine here on 2 separate occasions; thus the meal was the same. But we had differing opinions, including Darina. Thus, it’s absolutely okay to disagree, after all, food is a very personal thing. But it’s not okay to personally attack someone because they don’t share the same opinion.
Now, I would like to see how Flyin’ Brian can respond to this type of comment without calling people names, use insulting language, personal attacks and inferring that someone is unqualified or unknowledgeable. Because that type of post only exemplifies a bias in itself.
I wholeheartedly agree with you, Sherman. I couldn’t have said it better myself.
It is very refreshing to see a ‘bloggers’ review that is both well written, thought out and with adequate food knowledege. Please keep up the good work Flyin’ Brian. A writer I am clearly not. I do on the other hand possess food knowledge. I do enjoy the entertaining, yet ill informed reviews of our “3 Amigos” (As they’re referred to in the industry) .. Really? How can you call yourselves food critics and not distinguish between the flavor of parsnip and egg noodle? It’s no wonder you couldn’t taste the truffle
Marcus, welcome! I have never proclaimed to be a food critic so I am not sure how that will apply to me!
On the note about parsnips, since they where thinly sliced plus it was fried, a lot of characteristics mimic that of other food. As for the truffle, can people please stop skipping throught the comments? If it was only me who didn’t notice it but others did on the same table, I will accept the critique. However, when none of us noticed it, well, you draw your own conclusions…
All I have to say is if a distinguished chef on Top Chef cannot even identify 50% of the items they tasted in a challenge, then most regular people can make errors too. I assume you are perfect?
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