Delicias de Alicia

Delicas de Alicia
4854 Imperial Street
Burnaby, BC

I have complained a lot of times in the past that we do not have non-Mexican, Latin American eateries. While you have gems like El Pulgarcito, El Inka Deli (here and here), i.e., given the large land mass that is Latin American, these restaurants are just a spec of what that part of the world has to offer. Of course, me being raised in one of those small regions, makes me crave that food in a way quite different from the usual Vancouverite. Try cooking it myself? Well, I wish… Unfortunately, I didn’t really learn… So, when I found out Delicias de Alicia (literally, Alicia’s Delight) opened, I was more than excited to give it a try.

Here is a wacky note of the restaurant. A couple of weeks ago, I wrote a post of Betty’s Fish and Chips and, I mentioned, that place used to be a sushi restaurant and, prior to that, it was Betty’s. Guess what? Delicias de Alicia is located in that exact same spot. I hope this is not setting a precedent…

When I went, they were having a limited menu. That was because they were open only for a week or so. That is fine, as long as I can get some Latin food, I ought to be good! Now, as mentioned above, cuisine across Latin American is varied depending on the region; however, in the Caribbean area, there are certain combinations that you will find in any of those countries: rice and beans, plantain, et al. And, then, there is a particular stew: ropa vieja. Since it was in the menu, that day, I thought, hey, I want some ropa vieja

But, first a drink. When I saw it in the menu, I wasn’t sure what to expect until I was given that plastic cup. Unfortunately, my experience with this drink (the brand, specifically) hasn’t been the best and I barely had half of it. On that note, it was supposed to be mango pop/soda but tasted anything but…

A token side salad I would have been able to live without…

OK, here it is, ropa vieja served with congri and fried plantain. Actually, in the menu, it was supposed to be yuca con mojo (cassava with garlic); however, they made a switch without telling me. You know what? I would have preferred the fried plantain anyways! I am sure that, by now, you would have noticed something really odd: Yes, it was served in a cardboard plate…. Now, I am not blasting them for doing that, specially considering the location (and the location’s history). I just felt… Weird to be served in that way after all these years in a sit down restaurant… (Yes, in Panama, you would be sered in such plates and/or styrofoam). As for the food itself…

This is the best fried plantain I have had in a while – In fact, it was better than the ones I had in El Inka Deli. However, there is a bit of apple and oranges situation here: whereas El Inka was served in patacón form (i.e., smashed flat), here, it wasn’t completely flat. The difference between the two methods is the resulting “starchiness” in the middle. I know that, for most, this might be a non-issue; however, as I have mentioned, I grew up eating this and I take it (somewhat) seriously. There was one point that failed, though. As in most fried food, it is best to season it as soon as it leaves the fryer. Here, I wished they sprinkled it with a bit of salt.

The congri, the Cuban name for rice and beans dish. Whereas in New Orleans, you would serve it on top (i.e., cooked beans on top of white rice), in several parts of Latin America, the beans might be cooked in the rice. I know this might sound really foreign to most people as it is starch in starch but in a way it complements each other. Depending on the beans used, taste-wise, it might be either unnoticeable or contributing to the otherwise plain rice. One thing that might be more noticeable is the resulting texture. I know it is difficult to explain unless you actually try it… As for the one served here, it was OK, not the best I ever had. At least, again, it wasn’t plain white rice (not complaining here!)… And the main part of the meal: the ropa vieja. Literally meaning “old clothes”, this is a flank steak stew, as you can see from the strands. However, despite of those strands of meat, it is really soft. OK, some chewing required but not more than what you think. Unfortunately, I thought it felt somewhat short. Now, I am not sure if it is because Cubans cook it this way or because I have grown up eating it with a heavy sofrito, that combination of tomato, bell peppers, garlic and oil, which provides a heavier taste “punch” to the meat. In this case, while edible, I thought it lacked some more flavour.

After I paid and left, I was a bit confused with the food served. From a price perspective, it falls on the expensive side (> $12). While the plantain side was good, the rest felt below par. That ranking might be even worst if I took off my “grew up in Latin America” hat off for a moment. Since a side does not make up the dish, I am not sure how willing I am to come back. Don’t get me wrong, I really want them to succeed as that will provide me with another outlet for Latin food. But not if the meal falls short like this…

Tagged under: Burnaby • Latin America