Delicas de Alicia
4854 Imperial Street
Burnaby, BC

I have complained a lot of times in the past that we do not have non-Mexican, Latin American eateries. While you have gems like El Pulgarcito, El Inka Deli (here and here), i.e., given the large land mass that is Latin American, these restaurants are just a spec of what that part of the world has to offer. Of course, me being raised in one of those small regions, makes me crave that food in a way quite different from the usual Vancouverite. Try cooking it myself? Well, I wish… Unfortunately, I didn’t really learn… So, when I found out Delicias de Alicia (literally, Alicia’s Delight) opened, I was more than excited to give it a try.

Here is a wacky note of the restaurant. A couple of weeks ago, I wrote a post of Betty’s Fish and Chips and, I mentioned, that place used to be a sushi restaurant and, prior to that, it was Betty’s. Guess what? Delicias de Alicia is located in that exact same spot. I hope this is not setting a precedent…
When I went, they were having a limited menu. That was because they were open only for a week or so. That is fine, as long as I can get some Latin food, I ought to be good! Now, as mentioned above, cuisine across Latin American is varied depending on the region; however, in the Caribbean area, there are certain combinations that you will find in any of those countries: rice and beans, plantain, et al. And, then, there is a particular stew: ropa vieja. Since it was in the menu, that day, I thought, hey, I want some ropa vieja

But, first a drink. When I saw it in the menu, I wasn’t sure what to expect until I was given that plastic cup. Unfortunately, my experience with this drink (the brand, specifically) hasn’t been the best and I barely had half of it. On that note, it was supposed to be mango pop/soda but tasted anything but…


A token side salad I would have been able to live without…
OK, here it is, ropa vieja served with congri and fried plantain. Actually, in the menu, it was supposed to be yuca con mojo (cassava with garlic); however, they made a switch without telling me. You know what? I would have preferred the fried plantain anyways! I am sure that, by now, you would have noticed something really odd: Yes, it was served in a cardboard plate…. Now, I am not blasting them for doing that, specially considering the location (and the location’s history). I just felt… Weird to be served in that way after all these years in a sit down restaurant… (Yes, in Panama, you would be sered in such plates and/or styrofoam). As for the food itself…

This is the best fried plantain I have had in a while – In fact, it was better than the ones I had in El Inka Deli. However, there is a bit of apple and oranges situation here: whereas El Inka was served in patacón form (i.e., smashed flat), here, it wasn’t completely flat. The difference between the two methods is the resulting “starchiness” in the middle. I know that, for most, this might be a non-issue; however, as I have mentioned, I grew up eating this and I take it (somewhat) seriously. There was one point that failed, though. As in most fried food, it is best to season it as soon as it leaves the fryer. Here, I wished they sprinkled it with a bit of salt.

The congri, the Cuban name for rice and beans dish. Whereas in New Orleans, you would serve it on top (i.e., cooked beans on top of white rice), in several parts of Latin America, the beans might be cooked in the rice. I know this might sound really foreign to most people as it is starch in starch but in a way it complements each other. Depending on the beans used, taste-wise, it might be either unnoticeable or contributing to the otherwise plain rice. One thing that might be more noticeable is the resulting texture. I know it is difficult to explain unless you actually try it… As for the one served here, it was OK, not the best I ever had. At least, again, it wasn’t plain white rice (not complaining here!)… And the main part of the meal: the ropa vieja. Literally meaning “old clothes”, this is a flank steak stew, as you can see from the strands. However, despite of those strands of meat, it is really soft. OK, some chewing required but not more than what you think. Unfortunately, I thought it felt somewhat short. Now, I am not sure if it is because Cubans cook it this way or because I have grown up eating it with a heavy sofrito, that combination of tomato, bell peppers, garlic and oil, which provides a heavier taste “punch” to the meat. In this case, while edible, I thought it lacked some more flavour.
After I paid and left, I was a bit confused with the food served. From a price perspective, it falls on the expensive side (> $12). While the plantain side was good, the rest felt below par. That ranking might be even worst if I took off my “grew up in Latin America” hat off for a moment. Since a side does not make up the dish, I am not sure how willing I am to come back. Don’t get me wrong, I really want them to succeed as that will provide me with another outlet for Latin food. But not if the meal falls short like this…


{ 32 comments… read them below or add one }
I’m surprised you wrote it’s on the expensive side at > $12. You made no such complaints about El Inka Deli.
I went to El Inka Deli recently after rediscovering your post on it, and I ordered the Bandeja Paisa that you had. It’s a wonderful tasty dish that I enjoyed thoroughly, but it costs $18 if memory serves me correct. I felt it was a poor value considering the relatively inexpensive ingredients and the type of venue/atmosphere (take out deli). It wasn’t even a particularly large entree portion, having very little ground beef, sausage, and rice.
jlomein, the exact price is $14.50. It is true that El Inka Deli’s platter is a couple of toonies more expensive; however, considering it has more parts, I think in the end, they add up together. Had the execution of Alicia been better, price have been then a minor issue.
Yah, I agree that El Inka is on the expensive side considering the ingredients used. However, my experience with anything food Latin, Caribbean etc… usually costs more here. I believe that the main factors for this is the scarcity of these types of restaurants, and the material costs (as in, some of the ingredients are not readily available). I don’t think I’ve been to one of these types of restaurants and paid less than $10. With that being said, I think food pricing has a direct correlation with quality and just plain tasting good. For example, I would not pay $12 for Chef Hung’s noodles again since I felt it was expensive and poor value. However, I would gladly pay $12 for Santouka because it was probably the best ramen I’ve had in the GVRD to date. So it’s a matter of perception. So I agree with Kim that if the food was better at Delicias, then it would not be considered expensive. On the other hand, El Inka is good (I’ve been there too), it is not expensive since it was worth it. But with that being said, I do understand why people say it is expensive since you can do a lot with $18.
That’s too bad about Alicia…I had great Cuban food when I was in Portland and have been trying to find a similar place in Vancouver ever since!
$14.50 and its served on a paper plate, that’s kind of tacky. Were there proper utensils?
At least El Inka had the “authentic Brazillian living room experience”. ;p
Given what I’ve heard of Cuban food, it is a tad “bland” being that they are cut off from the US and have limited crops. It is homey food. Might make me break my meat ban again…
Whoa man, you beat me to it as I had a lunch there lately too.
Sherman, I think you put it way better than me!
Gigi, if you are in the US, you will have better chances on finding Latin food than here in Vancouver. What a shame… >_< Now, I am not discouraging you from going, just that it didn't work for me. If I were to go back (most likely if somebody drags me along), I might try some other dishes but, when one of the stereotypical ones fail, I am not sure what else to expect.
Jessica, plastic utensils…
shokutsu, and what were your thoughts?
gigi… I’m sure we’re both thinking about Pambiche in Portland eh?
I noticed this restaurant this week when I was having lunch next door at Alvin Garden. It wasn’t open yet as they were still in the finishing stages. It’s good to have a knowledgeable review as I am not that familiar with latin food and I would definitely be displeased at having paid these prices for food that is not worth it.
I think I’ll stick to tacos for now, as we have some decent ones in the city and there’s always El Caracol on Victoria.
You’ll have to visit us and read about it there one of these days.
I’m with you totally on that side salad, very very weak.
Sherman or Kim, one of you needs to blog about Lions Den Cafe on 15th Ave. It’s supposed to have filling portions of Caribbean food for less than $10. I read both your blogs regularly as I usually like the places you both have positive experiences at.
shokutsu, I noticed you already listed the restaurant as “Don’t Like” in Urbanspoon, so that already give me some hints.
Holly, unfortunately, what you mentioned is what I am trying to avoid, the part that Mexican food is the only “good” Latin American food and/or being representative. There are a lot of other Latin American cuisines but, unfortunately, they are barely represented in Vancouver. On that note, next time you go for tacos, give pupusas a try (in El Caracol, as you mentioned or, even better, Rinconcito Salvadoreño in Commerical Drive).
jlomein, yes, I have Lions Den in my radar for some time already. Thanks for reminding me of that one. Now, the one thing that might be odd is to find some miso or teriyaki in their menu!
(Side note, while the Caribeean is part of Latin America, it has its own unique identity as well, specially Indian influences).
jlomein, same here, I’ve wanted to visit the Lion’s Den for quite awhile now. Kim? You have time? LOL…
Funny you should mention pupusas. I love pupusas and that’s what I order at El Caracol.
Haven’t tried Rinconcito Salvadoreno because I hate having to look for parking on the Drive.
If you go to the Lion’s Den, their okinomiyaki is also good. I haven’t tried their caribbean food but it has a good vibe and their patties aren’t bad.
haha Sherman…yes I was thinking of Pambiche
I was recently informed that they will soon be serving with proper plates. The business just started and hopefully it will continue to improve. Personally i think their food its great and it’s totally worth it and should go try it.
Ernesto, welcome! If you can tell me when they have finally settled things down and have the full menu and everything running, I will take your word for it and probably then give it another try.
I wondered about this place when I spotted it on a recent jaunt at Alvin Garden next door. Sounds like I should just strike it off the list now. And considering it is right next to what could be my favourite restaurant in town (Alvin Garden)…it doesn’t stand a chance.
fmed, not necessarily. If you are up for Latin food, given there are only that many options, it is still an option. But….
I tried the food in this restaurant,and the taste is very cuban, the yuca con mojo,tostones, ropa vieja and congri were vry good,…but they have to serve the food with proper plate,I was dissapoint about it,…and about the salad,…they should serve tipical cuban salad,….but the taste of the food was very good, I would like to return when they change the plastic utensil……I’m Cuban…
In Newest,it is other cuban restaurant”La Guantamera”,I have to check it out,It was opened one week ago,….
Thank you for bring me this place to my attention. I will definitely visit it to check how close or far you are from your observations. Nonetheless, your attitude came across not that great from my point of view. For example, did you write limited menu? I know of many places to eat that have a limited menu, especially for ethnic food. The cook is a blind woman, helped by her husband, an engineer, in remission from cancer, with children, and she, with no chance of recertification as physiotherapist, knew only how to cook Cuban food and enjoy it.
Another sample, I hate Jarritos soda in any flavour, what’s the point of ordering it? And definitely, it is not their fault. What about a positive suggestion? It would be quite wonderful to have Lemonade, a common beverage in Cuba, or guava juice, or the cheap water from the tap. And about the plastic cup, I think Tim Horton’s give you a paper cup to go. But they have the luxury of ceramic cups with teams of 10 or more employees and many millions to back them up. Have you notice how many people go each hour through their counter to pay $8 and $9 for a chicken sandwich made in less than 2min of your time.
Cardboard plates? What about suggesting a hard plastic combo box like you get in sushi places? I think they should go that route. What about, did you notice that although in a cardboard plate, the amount of salad for really a combo plate is quite generous compared what you get in sushi combo?
You take seriously how fried plantain is prepared? And you grew eating it? I grew up in Cuba and there are ways of preparing this as provinces or municipalities are in that small island. I did not know until I read your thorough analysis that there was one preferable way. I think I have seen many ways of preparing a Dynamite roll or Hot and Sour pork. I only know I have always enjoyed fry plantains, not matter how starchy, and even friend Canadians that are very conscious about healthy foods, love my mother’s fried plantains. Embrace it!
About the sofritos? If you want to try Cuban food, there is nothing too spicy, too many tomato or too many peppers, etc. Tends to be bland, and they believe in enhancing, from their point of view, the taste, not to kill it. But everyone is entitled to their opinions. Maybe Cuban food is not destined to be like sushi with wide acceptance, but it is Cuban, and some people might learn to enjoy it, like most of my friends when they ask for my mother’s food.
Is $12 expensive and for eating all that? I rarely get out of any Chinese or Japanese eatery paying less than $15 and that considering that you ordered a Jarritos pop ($2).
Wao, I guess this is the first and last thought I will read from you. And I acknowledge that I have not visited “Delicias of Alicia” until tonight, if they are open. But I am definitely sure that I would have had a different perspective to share, a bit less arrogant.
Jose, welcome! I lived in Panama and I grew up eating rice and beans, plantains, ropa vieja, gallo pinto, guacho and similar dishes. So, unlikely most people in Vancouver who are not used to this type of cuisine, I have some (high?) expectations of what will end up on the plate. When I wrote “limited menu”, I was referring literally to that – they had a printed menu but half of the dishes weren’t available. Given the circumstances, wouldn’t have it been better to have the board with the dishes available? On that note, feel free to drop by and let us know what you think. However, at the same time, I have in the queue another Cuban restaurant. It is scheduled for next week Friday.
I think you will be more disappointed by the one in New West (likely the one next in your queue), bigger, maybe faster, but I don’t know!!! I doubt they will survive more than 6 months. I went to Alicia’s and I had a good time, met 2 Cubans and was a happy meal. But it was also interesting that my theoretical criticism was very easy and “arrogant” but the facts were quite different. In summary, we go to a restaurant to eat, with some minimum expectations of service. If they are not fulfilled then we never return. So I apologize for being too harsh and without facts, exactly what I was accusing you of doing.
This comment is not to judge anyone or compare with other kind of foods or restaurant. Every country has its own flavor and tradition.
I went to Alicia’s today with my husband, and wanted to stop by to add a comment being that is a new restaurant in our community. We had the beans with costillas, fried plantains and salad. The Plates were not plastic, like someone mentioned above, neither were the glasses. The taste was good, and we were really satisfied. We think the prices are reasonable and the ambience was comfortable. And by the way they had everything that’s on their menu.
I cannot believe how some people can take time to write hurtful things about who attends in the restaurant. I believe we all have an equal opportunity to move up in life, despite of the limits a person may have. In contrast these comments should give them courage to continue with their business. Lets just think that we are not free of any mishap or illness.
Luckily I didn’t read all the above comments before going to this restaurant, because it would’ve stopped me and my husband from going there.
Karina, while it is good you didn’t read the comments (as you stated, you won’t have gone to the restaurant), you should have at least read them before writing your own comment, not to mention check the pictures: they are evidence of what I had that night plus notes that things have changed.
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